As home inspectors, we dive into your electrical system during inspections, and branch wiring—the wires carrying power from your main panel to outlets, lights, and appliances—is a big part of that. Different homes have different wiring types, each with its own history, quirks, and safety considerations. Here’s what you need to know about the most common types, packed with facts and risks to watch for.


1. Copper Wiring

Facts:

Copper has been the go-to for branch wiring since the 1960s, prized for its excellent conductivity (second only to silver!) and durability. It’s typically encased in Romex (non-metallic sheathed cable) with color-coded insulation—white for neutral, black or red for hot. Standard sizes like 14-gauge (15-amp circuits) or 12-gauge (20-amp circuits) power most homes. Copper resists corrosion better than other metals, too.

Risks:

Even copper isn’t foolproof—faulty splices, pinched wires, or overloaded circuits (think too many space heaters!) can overheat. Insulation can crack after 30-40 years, especially in hot attics, risking shorts or shocks.

Good to Know:

Copper wiring in good condition is a homebuyer’s dream—safe, efficient, and built to last 50+ years with care.


2. Aluminum Wiring

Facts:

Used widely from 1965 to 1973 due to copper shortages, aluminum branch wiring is lighter (about half copper’s weight) but only 61% as conductive, so it needs larger gauges (e.g., 10-gauge aluminum for a 20-amp circuit vs. 12-gauge copper). It’s often silver-colored and stamped “AL” on the insulation. About 1.5 million U.S. homes still have it.

Risks:

Aluminum expands and contracts more with heat, loosening connections and raising fire risks—studies link it to a higher fire hazard than copper. Oxidation at terminals can worsen this. Signs like flickering lights or buzzing outlets mean it’s time for an electrician. Special CO/ALR outlets or pigtailing with copper can help.

Good to Know:

It’s not an automatic replacement job, but it demands vigilance and often drives up insurance premiums.


3. Knob-and-Tube Wiring

Facts:

Dating back to the 1880s through the 1940s, knob-and-tube (K&T) was the first standardized wiring system. It uses ceramic knobs to hold wires and tubes to protect them through wood framing. Wires are single conductors (no bundled cables), often 14-gauge copper, and it was designed for 60-amp service—tiny by today’s 200-amp standards! About 1% of U.S. homes still have active K&T.

Risks:

No grounding means higher shock risk—plugging in a three-prong appliance is a no-go without adapters. It maxes out at 15 amps per circuit, so modern loads (like microwaves) can overheat it. Rubber insulation hardens and cracks after 50-70 years, exposing wires. Replacement is usually the safest bet.

Good to Know:

K&T is a relic—fascinating but obsolete. Insurers often balk at it, and rewiring can cost $5,000-$15,000 depending on home size.


4. Cloth-Insulated Wiring

Facts:

Common from the 1920s to 1950s, this copper wiring uses cotton or rayon cloth soaked in wax or rubber for insulation, often paired with K&T or early BX (armored cable). It’s usually 14- or 12-gauge and lacks modern plastic’s durability. You’ll spot its black, woven look in old panels or exposed areas. Some versions included asbestos for fire resistance—another layer of history!

Risks:

Cloth frays or brittles over 60-80 years, especially in damp basements or hot attics, risking exposed wires and fires. Rodents chew it like candy, and asbestos (if present) poses a health hazard if disturbed. We flag this for replacement if it’s widespread or damaged.

Good to Know:

It worked in its day, but today’s power needs and safety codes make it a liability—rewiring is often the smartest move.


Why It Matters During a Home Inspection

When we inspect, we’re tracing these wires to spot outdated systems, worn insulation, or overloaded circuits. Each type tells a story about your home’s age and safety. Whether it’s copper’s reliability or K&T’s vintage charm, we’ll give you the facts to help you decide what’s next—repairs, upgrades, or just peace of mind.

Questions about your wiring?

We’d love to help shed light on your home’s electrical system! 🚧💡

Your roof is your home’s first line of defense against rain, wind, and snow. But when was the last time you gave it a good look? At Northwoods Home Inspection Group, we’ve seen how small roofing issues can turn into big, costly leaks if ignored. Catching problems early saves you stress—and money. Here’s what to watch for before the drips start.

1. Missing or Damaged Shingles

Shingles are like armor for your roof. If they’re cracked, curled, or missing entirely, water can sneak underneath. After a windy day, take a quick look—those bare spots won’t fix themselves. Pro tip: A single missing shingle might seem minor, but it’s an open invitation for trouble.

2. Granule Loss in Your Gutters

Ever noticed gritty bits in your gutters or downspouts? Those are granules from your asphalt shingles wearing away. Losing them means your shingles are aging fast, making them less waterproof. If your gutters look like a sandbox, it’s time to call us for a closer look.

3. Water Stains on Ceilings or Walls

Spotted a brownish ring on your ceiling? That’s a leak’s calling card. Even if it’s not actively dripping, water stains mean moisture has already breached your roof. Don’t wait for a downpour to confirm it—get it checked ASAP!

4. Moss or Algae Growth

A little green on your roof might look charming, but moss and algae trap moisture, eating away at shingles over time. They thrive in shady spots, and while they may seem like just a cosmetic issue, they signal that your roof’s surface is breaking down.

5. Sagging or Uneven Rooflines

Stand back and scan your roof. Does it dip or sag anywhere? That could mean rotting decking or weakened supports under those shingles. A sagging roof isn’t just ugly—it’s a structural red flag.

6. Damaged Flashing Around Chimneys and Vents

Flashing—the metal strips sealing gaps around chimneys, skylights, and vents—keeps water out. If it’s rusted, cracked, or peeling, leaks are waiting to happen. This is a sneaky spot homeowners often miss, but we always check.

Why It Matters

The average roof repair costs between $300 and $1,000, but a full replacement? That’s $5,000-$10,000 or more, depending on your home. Spotting these signs early can keep your wallet happier. Plus, leaks don’t just damage your ceiling—they can lead to mold, which is a whole other headache.

What You Can Do

Grab some binoculars (stay off that ladder!) and scan for these warning signs. If you spot any issues, contact a professional for an inspection. Don’t let your roof surprise you with a leak—because a dry home is a happy home!

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